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In alcuni paesi del Gargano, il 17 gennaio, era usanza accendere un falò e ammazzare il maiale per onorare S. Antonio Abate. La manifestazione era molto gradita per il folklore ma soprattutto per la frenesia e l’entusiasmo che permettevano di rendere l’avvenimento oltre che gioioso, anche momento di socializzazione e momento di diffusione di un istintivo sentimento fraterno.
Intorno al fuoco si mangiavano granoturco e fave abbrustoliti. Si sgranocchiavano anche i ceci preparati secondo un vero e proprio rituale. Infatti prima di essere cotti nella sabbia calda, erano fatti marinare con bucce di arance, foglie di alloro e sale, e poi scottati per circa due minuti in acqua bollente, avvolti in uno straccio, mentre si recitavano due Padre Nostro in latino.
Non mancavano canti tradizionali, a volte provocatori, ma solo allo scopo di divertirsi e di far divertire i partecipanti. Per la buona riuscita degli scherzi e per non essere riconosciuti, invece, ci si mascherava. Iniziava così il carnevale.
I contadini in quel periodo ammazzavano il maiale, mettendone a disposizione una parte che veniva arrostita sulla brace del falò.
In verità del maiale non andava sprecato assolutamente nulla. E infatti:
– una volta ucciso, si strappavano i peli del dorso per farne dei pennelli;
L’animale bagnato con acqua bollente e rasato completamente con dei coltelli affilati( peli residui e unghie delle zampe venivano bruciati con la paglia), era poi appeso, squarciato a metà.
– la testa tagliata era posta sul tavolo con un’arancia tra i denti.
– le budella venivano pulite e fatte asciugare. Una parte riempita di carne tritata si trasformava in salsiccia. Un’altra parte, invece, veniva riempita di sangue misto di aromi, di cacao, di zucchero, di pezzettini di grasso prima di essere bollite nell’acqua.
Il brodo ottenuto, distribuito agli amici e parenti, serviva per preparare una specie di polenta dolce.
-Il fegato, i polmoni e il cuore si cucinavano con aglio, olio, sale e con qualche foglia di alloro.
-l’involucro che conteneva questi organi serviva per avvolgere involtini ripieni.
-le cotenne, le orecchie, le zampe, la lingua e il muso ricoperti di sale erano conservati in luogo fresco in contenitori di argilla.
– le cosce, ricoperte di sale e pressate per un certo periodo con enormi sassi si asciugavano appese in luogo fresco e buio per trasformarsi in prosciutti stagionati.
– Il lardo compreso di cotenna veniva salato ed appeso.
– il lardo misto alla carne si arrotolava speziato di sale, peperoncino e rosmarino per ottenere la pancetta arrotolata.
Tra magre verità, credenze popolari e magiche leggende…..
Il globo terrestre nel compiere il movimento di rotazione intorno al sole (equinozio invernale), riceve meno luce e calore, cosicché i giorni diventano più corti e l’aria più gelida, la natura cessa di vegetare e allo stesso modo animali e uomini rallentano il proprio ciclo di vita.
Gli antichi popoli, ogni 31 gennaio, accendevano enormi fuochi alimentati fino al giorno delle Ceneri e sacrificavano maiali o cinghiali alla dea Terra per tenere caldo il suo cuore e poter conservare i semi utili ai raccolti.
La brace dei fuochi veniva portata nelle case per riscaldare e purificarle, mentre le ceneri venivano sparse nei campi in auspicio di un buon raccolto.
Si consumava la carne dei suini fino al giorno precedente alle Ceneri e in modo particolare nei tre giorni antecedenti unendo il detto: “vale mangiare carne”. Da qui si coniò la ricorrenza del “Carnevale”. Dopo in onore alla dea Cerere, per 40 giorni, ci si purificava l’anima con digiuni e si pregava affinché gli armenti proliferassero e i raccolti riempissero i magazzini.
Una leggenda legata al nome di S. Antonio Abate, (da non confondere con S. Antonio di Padova), sposterebbe la data dell’accensione dei fuochi dal 31 gennaio al 17, giorno della morte del santo. Nato nel centro dell’Egitto da nobile famiglia e rimasto orfano non ancora ventenne, si privò di tutti i suoi averi, distribuendone parte a chi si fosse preso cura della sorella e parte ai poveri. Si allontanò, poi, da tutti rifugiandosi presso una tomba abbandonata.
La leggenda narra che S. Antonio Abate un giorno salvò un porcellino da bestie feroci; da quel momento il porcellino lo seguì dappertutto come fosse un cane. In una giornata fredda d’inverno aiutò il Santo ad entrare nell’Inferno che con un bastone a forma di “T” prelevò un tizzone di brace per riscaldare la terra.
Il diavolo si vendicò. Uccise il maialino lanciando un coltello. E nascose sotto il letto del Santo un carbone ardente a provocargli dolori atroci alla pelle. Da qui il nome “fuoco di S. Antonio”.
- Antonio Abate nonostante i sacrifici, le mortificazioni e le malattie visse per 105 anni e morì il 17 gennaio del 356 d.C. Famoso in Oriente e in tutta Europa fu proclamato patrono degli animali domestici, dei salumieri, dei pittori, dei macellai, dei fornai e dei cavalieri.
Il giorno della ricorrenza della Sua morte, i contadini radunavano gli animali domestici per la benedizione dopo averli fatti girare intorno alla chiesa; dopo si svolgeva il mercato, si barattava e o si vendeva il bestiame. Davanti alla chiesa e dopo la raccolta di legna di porta in porta, seguendo il criterio della questua, si accendeva il falò.
Il falò rappresentava simbolicamente l’elemento che distrugge il male per far rinascere il bene.
L A F I L A S T R O C C A
Il porcellino di S. Antonio
ingannò il demonio
con al collo la campanella
aggirò la sentinella
nell’inferno s’intrufolò
tutto il giorno lì restò.
Tra i diavoli vi fu scompiglio
non trovando il nascondiglio
chiesero al Santo per cortesia
affinché se lo portasse via
e Lui col bastone
gli rubò il tizzone.
Il diavolo arrabbiato
contro i due ha scagliato
il coltello al porcellino
al Santo un carboncino
e per colpa del demonio
ebbe il fuoco S. Antonio.
Il porcello non fu sepolto
ma squartato in ogni parte
per mantenere a tante lune
fece la carne a salume
rase i peli col coltello
e confezionò dei pennelli
con il sangue la farinata
con il lardo la pomata.
La gente di ogni loco
fa cerchio intorno al fuoco
danza e canta mascherata
per non essere individuata
beve vini saporiti
fa legumi abbrustoliti
carne arrosto con il sale
fino a tutto Carnevale.
Così passa l’inverno
e il diavolo resta all’Inferno.
Viva evviva S. Antonio
che ha gabbato il demonio.
Antonio Monte da Milano
